Under the Skin

Surgeon's Hall Museum

Surgeon’s Hall Museum

There was one place in Edinburgh we’ve wanted to visit since last year, but it was closed for renovation. This September, it reopened: the Surgeon’s Hall museum. It had one item we were desperate to see – a pocketbook made from William Burke’s skin. William Burke, along with William Hare, murdered sixteen people between 1827-1828 in order to sell their bodies to Doctor Robert Knox for dissection. They’re known as the most infamous resurrection men, but they never actually dug anybody up. And after Burke was executed (Hare turned King’s evidence and got away with it despite being the more evil of the two) a pocket book and card case were made of his skin. The card case is in the witchery shop in Victoria Street. Now we got to see the pocket book. Yes, we get ridiculously excited about the strangest things. Our zumba teacher once said “you walk a mile to find a vegan cafe, but get excited to see an object made from human skin.” Yep. We’re paradoxes. The Surgeon’s Hall museum was the first place we were taking Tom and Amy to as an introduction to Edinburgh. This is what happens when you come on holiday with us. We make you look at dead things in jars.

Edinburgh castle

us at Edinburgh castle

The museum¬†was fascinating. Level 3 was dedicated to the history of surgery from the 1500s to the 1900s, which was perfect as our new book is set in 1828 and features the body snatchers. Naturally they had a section on the resurrectionists. And they had the pocketbook made from Burke’s skin! As well as his death mask. So we’ve seen the card wallet and the pocketbook. The skeleton is the last piece of the macabre puzzle. Sadly we weren’t allowed to take photos inside the museum ūüė¶ There was also a mock up of an anatomy lecture theatre.

Surgeon's Hall museumLevel 2 was the pathology level and was divided into different body parts, all pickled in jars. So there was a section on knees, kidneys, eyes, heart, etc. And 2 display cases of skeletons with scoliosis. Lynx was made to stand between them, as she has mild scoliosis. We spent a long time finding a skeleton that matched hers. The display cases proudly showed off their specimens, each one clamouring for our attention. We didn’t know which side to start on! When confronted with rows and rows of dissected organs, how do you pick? It almost seemed wrong to get hungry in this section. Heat in Las Vegas killed our appetites. Staring at pickled organs in Edinburgh did not.

P1130558One area on anesthetics told of a story of a doctor using ether in a demonstration The patient woke during the operation and fled, locking himself in the toilet. The doctor, described as a determined man, chased him down, kicked open the door and carried the screaming patient back to the operating theatre to finish the procedure. That has to go in a story somewhere.

Frankenstein's pubTom and Amy went to the cafe so we headed down to the lower level and looked at more specimens that covered the two world wars and injuries sustained there. We didn’t want to leave but we were really¬†hungry by this point and the lure of shortbread and Red Bull was too great to resist. As we were stuffing our faces outside, a woman commented on lovely our outfits were. We thanked her and tried not to spit crumbs out. We didn’t know there was a cafe and had no idea where it would be. Lynx spotted a black sign near the entrance, but we’d left our glasses at home as we didn’t¬†have room for them. This was a mistake. Yes, we realise we could’ve worn them instead of carrying them, but vanity won’t allow this. We lived to regret this for the rest of the holiday.

Frankenstein's pub

us in Frankenstein’s

Normally we get away with it by having someone with us with perfect vision who can read things like signs and road names and because we don’t need glasses most of the time,¬†we can pretend we see the world in 20/20 vision. Seriously, who needs to see details on trees? Or to see people’s faces from afar. So if you see us from a distance and we don’t appear to have seen you, we’re either not paying attention, or you’re a faceless blur. Like Slender Man. Most of the time people probably look better through our vision. But there were many times on this trip we were alone. Without perfect vision. Fortunately, we came up with a plan – we switched on the camcorder and zoomed in on the sign. It was pointing to the cafe.¬†We then realised we’d missed out the dentistry section but met up with Tom and Amy instead. We could’ve easily spent half the day in the museum, but we had a list of other things we wanted to do and we didn’t want Tom and Amyy¬†to get bored, so sadly decided to leave.

Gladstone's Land

Gladstone’s Land luckenbooth

We stopped at Tesco for soya milk and Red Bull then Sainsbury’s for crisps and chocolate. That was less exciting than the museum but it can’t be body parts and pickled organs all the time. Dropped our shopping at the apartment then went to Frankenstein’s for lunch. This is our most frequently visited place in Edinburgh. Tom and Amy tried haggis. We tried a new dish – fries. Shocked everyone with our bravery. We got to see Frankenstein come out of the generator on his stretcher! All our visits to Frankenstein’s and we’ve never seen this. So we’re still experiencing new things, despite Edinburgh being an annual destination.

Writers' museumOur next stop was Gladstone’s Land, which is a tenement made up in the 16th-18th century style. It has a Luckenbooth (a kiosk) so we wanted to visit it as Luckenbooths feature in¬†our books. It was really cool – bigger than we thought it would be inside. People outside had a raven, Lenore and an owl so we took photos of them. The raven and her sister, Nevermore were going to lead a ghost tour.

Writers' Museum

Writers’ Museum

We wandered up to the castle to look for the armoury, but couldn’t find it, so headed back down to the Writers’ museum. No wonder we’ve never found it – it’s down Lady Stairs Close. The museum’s¬†dedicated to Robert Burns, Robert Louis Stevenson and Walter Scott.

We’ve only read Jekyll and Hyde¬†and other short stories in a collection¬†by Stevenson,¬†but it was still interesting. One day we’ll be in there. Even if we have to hide our books among the exhibits and invent Scottish ancestry. We headed back to the apartment then worked our way down Cockburn Street and went to the Dungeons! We visit here every time we come to Edinburgh. Had to queue for ages! The photographer, Stan, was hilarious. His phrase “terror in the eyes, jazz in the hands” has become a highlight of our trip. We asked if we could keep him, but he said he’s feral and can’t be tamed, so we offered to drag him out by his ankles. We have such a gift at talking to people.

Edinburgh Dungeons

the only guy willing to accept kisses

The Dungeons were brilliant as always. They had a new attraction¬†with a green lady ghost and the Mary King close bit was different, with the buildings collapsing. The resurrectionist bit was different too, where instead of Burke and Hare choosing victims, we were part of the watch and a woman came out of a sarcophagus. We bought the cuddly judge this time (now named MacKenzie, after the famous Bluidy MacKenzie. We bought the executioner, Ketch, last time), as well as plague doctor keyrings, had a torture wheel keyring free (this may come in handy for…research), we also bought a little anatomy table and ‘cos we spent ¬£20, we got a free Sweeney Todd clock! And Stan¬†gave us a free photo.

Edinburgh Dungeons

Lynx with MacKenzie and a friend

We headed back to the apartment and decided to take a rare evening off. We packed our stuff for Falkirk then we all played Murder of Crows and 2 games of Gloom. Tom and Amy went to chill in their room so we set up our bed and got ready for the vaults tour, which was starting at 11, so we had couple of hours to kill and spent it reading.

Mercat tours

us and Nichol

We left at 10:35, thinking the mercat cross was ages away. It was practically outside. So we sat on a statue to wait for everyone else and got a lot of funny looks. One guy even commented something about Halloween. Think he was referring to our clothes. Hey, every day is Halloween! Our tour guide, Nichol was fantastic. He was creepy and funny. He tried to creepily outstare us. Some women shrieked and fled. We stared him down, being even creepier, and we weren’t wearing Halloween makeup like he was. We started at the mercat cross. Cat felt herself tip, as though she was standing on a wonky paving slab and someone had stood on the other end or pushed her. But her slab wasn’t wonky and nobody was behind her.Blair Street vaults

Nichol told a story about a traitor and demonstrated the torture on an unwilling victim, who took to playing a torture victim really well. Then we moved into Borthwick’s Close where Nichol¬†told us about the infamous¬†Major Weir. After that we went into the vaults. We will never get bored of the vaults. One girl was picked to stay at the back of the group to make sure everyone stayed together. She was terrified and wussed out. We heroically took over. Well, we always stay behind for photos and time alone in creepy places. That’s the same as being heroic, right?

Blair Street vaultsWhen we were in the safe vault, Nichol¬†mentioned¬†a pregnant tour guide being attacked by a female ghost. Lynx could’ve sworn a woman walked past her¬†right side and stood behind us. She eventually turned to look. There was nobody there. So it might’ve been the shadows of the women in front of her¬†on the wall and Lynx’s¬†hair over her¬†eye. The camera wasn’t on, so we can’t verify this. It was now midnight. It was now Halloween.

Blair Street vaultsWe were allowed to wander for 10 minutes so we instantly split from the group. They all stayed together in the safe vault for ages, too scared to venture off. We were off before he’d finished speaking. Time alone in the vaults? No way were we passing that up. We managed to lose everyone and do a bit of ghost hunting. But mostly we spent our time taking photos and talking about what we had experienced on camera. As everyone else stayed together, they were easily tracked for regrouping. Nichol had to come and find us. Why does everyone notice when we disappear? Damn it people, let us be alone in the dark vaults. We were rounded up and taken into Mr Boots’s vault. After the tour, we hung back, taking photos and trying to see if we could hear the footsteps that we’d heard the last time we were in these vaults. Sadly Mr Boots didn’t seem to want to visit us this time. We grabbed Nichol for a photo and begged to be able to stay the night.Blair Street vaults

Day of the Dead

Red Bull MiniDay 3 of Edinburgh – after one of the worst night’s sleep in a while, we woke to find the Red Bull Mini parked below our window like a love-struck Romeo ready to serenade us and awaken us with the amber nectar that is Red Bull. Now we’re the least romantic people you’ll meet but damn it we fell for his efforts. While Neen and Elaine headed for the cafe on Blair Street for breakfast, we spent our time wisely – harassing the Red Bull Mini. Someone even thought we were the reps. We had to explain that no, we just really loved Red Bull. Is it weird admitting to strangers you’ve written songs about an energy drink?Red Bull Mini

We met up with our fellow travellers in the cafe and headed for the Dungeons. As we reached the doors, Elaine realised she’d left her ticket in Travelodge. We told the Dungeons we would return and we parted ways. Neen and Elaine headed to Princes Street to do some shopping and we returned to Old Town. First stop – Red Bull. Mission accomplished, we toured the closes of Old Town, filming short information pieces on them as they’re the locations used in our plague doctor novella, The Malignant Dead. One of them happens to be on the street where our Travelodge is. It’s the scene of a double murder. When we discovered our Travelodge was on this street, we were so excited. It’s not often you get to stay in a place where you kill two characters. Maybe their vengeful ghosts were the reason we weren’t sleeping…We’ll put the filming¬†together so when the book is released, people will be able to see the streets featured in it. Obviously they looked a little different in 1645 – there weren’t wheelie bins and scaffolding back then. Though we spent most of our time nearly getting run down by cars or vans. When we’re casually wandering Edinburgh this doesn’t happen, but if we stand in the road with a camera pointing at us, suddenly we become targets. There were 2 people playing Scottish music near the Mercat cross. It’s hard to film a piece whilst trying to resist doing a jaunty jig in the middle of High Street.

Burke's skin card case

card case made from Burke’s skin

We headed for the Witchery Shop where we bought a replica of the newspaper featuring Burke and Hare’s trial, a skull box and 3 keyrings – tombstone, coffin and ghost. Then we found what we had been searching for – the card case made from Burke’s hand skin. Finally we had caught up with the infamous body snatcher. We stared at it in awe, filming and photographing it as the shop worker sat behind it, probably a little nervous at our ghoulish delight. Unfortunately the case¬†was in a glass case so we couldn’t touch it ūüė¶ But we did chat to the worker about it and our failed attempt at finding Burke’s skeleton. He told us it isn’t in the Surgeon’s Hall like we’d been told but in the anatomy museum of the university. It’s still used as a teaching tool. The anatomy museum is only open to the public on the last Saturday of the month. When we weren’t there. Howls of rage echoed around the tiny shop. Infuriatingly, we’d originally planned to be in Edinburgh on that day but couldn’t get cheap rooms or the flight times we wanted. It seems Burke is outwitting us from the beyond the grave. There’s only one thing for it – we have to return to Edinburgh. And this time, we will plan our trip around the times when we can view the skeleton. People have planned trips around worse reasons.

execution site on Grassmarket

execution site on Grassmarket

Later we headed to Grassmarket to meet up with our fellow travellers. We found them trapped on the bus so¬†waved and turned around,¬†constantly taunting them as they were stuck in traffic ūüėÄ We met up by the old execution site then ventured into Edinburgh’s oldest pub, The White Hart Inn, built in 1516. In The Malignant Dead, McCrae drinks in here. We filmed the corner where he sits. The guy who happened to be sitting in the corner started looking very paranoid as both us and the camera pointed at him. He was too far away to hear us talking about the book. We decided not to explain what we were doing, instead letting him wonder why he was the focal point for our filming ūüėÄ A day isn’t complete until we’ve made at least one person nervous.

White Hart Inn

White Hart Inn with nervous man in white t-shirt

After finishing our vodkas and lemonades, we decided to head to a vegan cafe we’d heard about on Bread Street. It had closed down. So we wandered down Morriston Street to find the other vegan cafe we’d heard about. It was now boiling and Morriston Street was very long. We must’ve walked about half a mile when we finally found a sign for the cafe. It didn’t look very existent. In fact, it was starting to look like crack den. But the door to the building was open so we went in. As we were walking up the abandoned stairs,¬†this was feeling more like the start to a horror film than a cafe. Did we do the sensible thing and turn around? No. Stories never start with “so we turned around and went home.” That would ruin the inbred cannibals’ fun. We reached the top¬†to find doors locked and post piling up outside. Definitely closed then. And we’d walked all this way. Our zumba teacher commented on our FB post about this, saying how she loves our unique take on the world – we’ll walk for miles in the heat to find a vegan cafe but get really excited at seeing something made from human skin ūüėÄ We found a really nice empty pub called The Priory. They had skull bottles on the wall. That was an automatic win for us. The waiter was really friendly, even if he did look like Austin Powers’s son.

The Priory Pub Edinburgh

skull bottles in The Priory Pub

We returned to Travelodge before heading back out to Frankenstein’s! Our favourite waitress, Bec, introduced us to the gloriousness that is chips in ¬†ice cream. She is the first person we’ve met who wasn’t disgusted when we told her about the heavenly treat that is dipping chips in slush puppy. Then we made our way to the Dungeons. Edinburgh DungeonsThey were brilliant as always. Neen once again got put on trial for witchcraft. Not quite sure how this keeps happening. Maybe us constantly pointing at her and shouting “witch!” doesn’t really help. Luckily we’re in the 21 century and not 1649, or Neen’s fate would be so much worse. The only guy in the group got picked on for most of it ūüėÄ There were 2 girls in their early twenties¬†who¬†were the obligatory screamers you get on every tour. We always have fun with screamers. You can spot them instantly – they’re usually 2 girls in the late teens/early twenties who spend the whole time clinging to each other, too scared to move on, and they shriek at the slightest thing. The¬†girls got made to ride in the front of the boat as we headed to Sawney Bean’s cannibal caves. We love the boat ride, it’s pitch black and really creepy as you hear the cannibals hunting for you. The girls’ terror was intensified when they kept getting tickled. By Neen ūüėÄ We bought ourselves a cuddly executioner from the gift shop. We named him Ketch, after the worst executioner in British history, Jack Ketch, who took 7 goes to sever James Scott’s head.

Ketch enjoying a Red Bull smoothie

Ketch enjoying a Red Bull smoothie

Edinburgh ghost bus

The Necrobus

9 p.m., it was time to¬†climb aboard the Necrobus! The buses were used as funeral hearses to carry mourners, pallbearers and the coffin to the funeral, until a fire burned all but 2 buses. One is in London, the other in Edinburgh. They used to close the curtains if the coffin was on overnight as people believed spirits could become trapped in reflective surfaces. The bus was incredible. We want one. The tour was brilliant and a thick fog descended, making it eerily atmospheric. The views of Edinburgh were completely shrouded in the fog but we think it made the experience better. The conductor was hilarious. He even let us go downstairs for Neen to take our photo as we pretended to be the spirits trapped inside the windows. We wanted to spend the night on the bus but unfortunately, people seem to notice when we’re not among the group so we never get away with hiding until closing time.Edinburgh ghost bus

Then we finally made it to Banshee’s Labyrinth! Reputedly the most haunted pub in Edinburgh but what excited us was it used to be Bloody George MacKenzie’s house. Yes, the MacKenzie poltergeist we hunted for last year. It used to attack women in the house. And it’s now a pub and situated over one of the vaults where a banshee has been seen. It was stunning.

Banshee's Labyrinth

inside Banshee’s Labyrinth

Purple walls upstairs, red walls downstairs, black gothic furniture. It looked like our house. We found a gibbet in a tunnel so naturally put ourselves inside it. Unfortunately, the only spirit was inside our lemonade.Edinburgh ghost bus

Dungeon Masters

Before the day could even begin we had to walk to Tesco to find some cold soya milk. On our other holidays we’ve had a cool box full of ice as our portable fridge but we couldn’t exactly take it on the plane, so cue us trekking to Tesco in the rain for a milk mission. It was about a mile from our Travelodge but walking’s cheaper than a bus. We bought bags of ice to put in the sink with our milk and Red Bull. Then regretted it as we had to lug the heavy bags for the mile home. We were going to go to the castle but after that hike and the rain, we decided to go to the dungeons instead. The sun did make an appearance, but by then we had our hearts set on the dungeon.

Edinburgh Dungeons, The Edinburgh Dungeons are amazing! We knew were in for a good time when the first thing you do is pose for a photo. The girl who took our photo (we didn‚Äôt get her name) was lovely. Sadly we¬†weren’t¬†allowed to film or take photos, which was a shame because we want to relive it. We were first taken into a room where a judge awaited us. There was a couple on our tour but they weren’t really entering into the spirit of the dungeons. To put it another way, they looked like they’d accidentally taken the wrong turn out of Topshop and were too embarrassed to leave. The girl was the first put on trial, for witchcraft and just stood there, looking like she regretted the ticket price. Had we been called to take the stand we would’ve been proclaiming our innocence and even attempted an escape and body tackle while laying a curse upon people’s houses. Ryan was called to stand so us and Neen started booing him and calling for the death penalty, loudly declaring his guilt. He was put on trial for cross dressing – namely sneaking into Lady Chatterly’s back garden, putting on her pink frilly underwear and dancing around singing “I’m Shirley and I’m a big girly,” whilst slapping his backside. We haven‚Äôt laughed that hard in ages. We were in serious danger of rupturing vital organs. We were now really gutted we¬†couldn’t¬†film. This was comedy gold. Ryan was then known as Shirley for the rest of the holiday. It’s nice he gets a new nickname for each holiday, it’s like a souvenir that never gets lost.

The next stage was our punishment – the torture chamber – where a handsome torturer awaited us. Once again Ryan was his victim. There’s something about him that the guides pick up on because every tour we do, he gets picked on. Maybe it’s the Lynx Effect of his deodorant. The torturer demonstrated tongue removal , the chappy chopper (no prizes for guessing what that was used for) then made Ryan bend over the chair for the butcher’s hook. Never seen him look so nervous ūüėÄ Now he was the one looking like he regretted the ticket price as he awkwardly put his hands on the arm of the chair. That was as far as he got to bending over, the spoilsport. Neen and us were the only people who knew exactly what each piece of torture equipment was used for. Anyone would think that had been our favourite part in history lessons. We were put on a boat and sent through the pitch black caves of Galloway. There, we were greeted by the infamous Sawney Bean ‚Äď the cannibal. He took a liking to the girl on the tour, but she seemed a little freaked out. We moved on to Dr Knox’s anatomy class where his assistant performed an autopsy. We would’ve happily helped him – we’ve seen autopsy programmes, we know what to do. ¬†We got sprayed with water from the fake bladder before being led to a graveyard. We need a graveyard themed room in Casa Raven. We sat on headstone thrones and listened to Burke and Hare talking. It would’ve been nice to have actors portraying them, but being prodded through the thrones to see if we were suitable specimens was pretty cool. We should’ve slouched lower so they could have massaged our aching shoulders.Edinburgh Dungeons

The next part was a replica of Mary King‚Äôs Close, where a cloaked man scared the crap out of the couple we were with. The lights would occasionally go out then when they switched back on, he‚Äôd stand in front of them. Never heard a guy shriek like that ūüėÄ We thought it was the girl but no, that high pitched squeal of terror contained a Y Chromosome. We were sentenced to hang and given the option of backing out of the drop ride. Neen and us hate heights and hate that type of ride but we wanted the full experience so went on. As the ride went higher and higher we started to regret it. We barely paid attention to the judge delivering the death sentence, we were so nervous. After being told ‚Äúyou will hang from the neck until you are dead,‚ÄĚ they pulled the hangman’s lever and we dropped. Weirdly we enjoyed it and there’s an amazing photo of Neen screaming. We got trapped in the hall of mirrors until the guide rescued us. There was one spooky moment when we approached each other, thinking we were nearing a mirror until we both¬†realised¬†we were wearing different clothes. To be fair, it was dark. After we bought our souvenir photos, we took the lift to the gift shop. We would’ve bought the whole place if we weren’t so broke. We loved it so much, we could have happily spent the day doing tour after tour. There needs to be a Cardiff Dungeons. We’d go and work there. Sadly though, Cardiff doesn’t have the same dark and bloody history as Edinburgh. To our knowledge, we’ve never even had a serial killer.

We returned to Greyfriars Kirkyard so we could see it in the day. It’s beautiful. It has stunning monuments that are carved with skulls, skeletons – need we say more? Whilst we were there, an American couple asked if they could take our photo. This is happening with increasing regularity and sadly, it’s not because they know who we are. We all gathered together for the shot then got talking to them. Turned out, he works for the bass player of Matchbox 20, who had just finished a gig in Glasgow. Everyone had flown home, but they decided to head for Edinburgh instead. After the graveyard, we made our way to Black Lion game shop so Ryan could buy some dice. We spent ages in there while he deliberated, so just chatted to the owner.

Camera Obscura, mirror mazeBut we had another place planned – Camera Obscura. It‚Äôs filled with optical illusions and the camera obscura, which is a large mirror on the roof of the building, which reflects the city onto a table, allowing us to see the city from above. There was a cool mirror maze which was easier to navigate than the one in the dungeons. There was also a vortex tunnel, which had a metal bridge through a tunnel of lights which spins. It’s very disorienting and we all felt sick. No idea what possessed us to go through a second time.

We made a quick stop at our Travelodge then headed out for our vault tour. We called in to our closest pub – Jekyll and Hyde. Jeykll and Hyde pub, Another awesome pub. It is filled with dark wood, chandeliers, displays of old glass bottles, skulls and an old type writer and an area made to look like a library. Turns out, this was where the toilets were. They were concealed in the library walls. It’s the first time we’ve ever wanted to sit by the toilets. To get to the back section of the pub, you went through a tunnel with horror monsters painted on it. We need pubs like this in Cardiff. Perhaps one day someone will open a Soul Asylum pub in our honour, with cocktails with name like ECT, Insanity or The Lobotomy. The walls could be padded, the tables could be stretchers, the beer garden could be the graveyard, with headstone seats…we haven‚Äôt really thought about it.

After a quick drink, we made our way to the vaults. Our guide, Samantha was brilliant. The City of the Dead tour takes you to the Niddry Street vaults known as Damnation Alley. Each tour company has their own section of vaults. On this tour, there are only 3 vaults to go in, but one of them, Vault 19 has the legendary South Bridge entity, who attacks people. We were hoping tonight would be the night he made an appearance. Unfortunately, it wasn’t to be. We hear all these stories of people being attacked on tours and not once has it ever happened on a tour we’ve been on.¬†We got talking to an Australian tourist, who like us, was looking for scary things to do. He seemed nice and stuck with us for the tour. Either because we were the ones with the big light, or so he‚Äôd be able to throw us in the path of the entity. Or he figured the entity would be more scared of us and would therefore, attack the less threatening members of the group.

When we were in the vault, our guide had everyone switch off their torches so we were in complete darkness. Having been locked in the punishment cell in Ruthin Gaol, we’re used to being in a room so dark it makes your eyes hurt. But the girls in front of us were clearly scared. They kept switching their torches on. Samantha told us a story about a little girl, Claire, who was on a tour with her mum. The guide’s torch had died and Claire’s mum went to grab her hand, but Claire wasn’t there. After the guide’s torch switched on, Claire was stood in the corner, facing the wall, Blair Witch style. When her mum asked why had she gone, she replied “someone took my hand.” The guide asked if she thought it was her mum. She answered “no, I knew it wasn’t my mum. My mum doesn’t have claws.”Niddry Street Vaults

A guy burst into the vaults, screaming. The girls in front of us freaked out and rushed backwards. We were at the back of the group so were almost trampled. How could they not see that coming? It’s a classic horror technique. Although the scare did relieve some of the tension, the story would have been creepier without it.

We were gutted this tour didn’t have the cursed stone circle, as we were going to dance in it. We’re booked on the Mary King’s Close tour tomorrow, so unless we can change the time, we’ll have to leave the stone circle for another holiday. We finished the night in the Jekyll and Hyde pub before returning to our Travelodge to see if the entity had scratched us. Sadly it hadn’t. But there were more tours ¬†to come…